Painting the Chrysnbon Cook Stove

This is the kind of stove I imagine finding in Oma’s kitchen; I’ve seen similar examples, some still in use, throughout Appalachia. Success means walking the fine line between too new and outright abandoned. I always go through my process with each project, step by step, on Instagram so please check there (and soon on YouTube) for specifics but in the meantime here is the complete materials list as well as a general step by step instruction:

Materials List

  • Chrysnbon Cook Stove kit (available here)
  • Tamiya Fine Surface Primer Light Gray
  • Tamiya Matte Black enamel (applied either as a spray or via airbrush)
  • Tamiya Gloss Silver enamel (applied either as a spray or via airbrush)
  • LifeColor Eroding Dark Rust Wash
  • LifeColor Black Umber Wash
  • LifeColor Dark Aluminum
  • LifeColor Lacquered Steel Late WWII German Shell
  • Mr. Super Clear Semi-Gloss Spray
  • AK Interactive Weathering Pencils in the following shades:
    • Black
    • Smoke
    • Dark Grey
    • Neutral Grey
    • Dirty White
    • Dark Rust
    • Medium Rust
    • Rubber
    • Streaking Dirt

For other studio supplies that I personally recommend, see here.

For general tips and tricks useful in getting the most out of this and every Chrysnbon kit, see here.

Creating the “Cast Iron” Base

  1. Begin by spraying the black plastic sub-assembly with Tamiya Matte Black.
  2. Using a mop brush, apply LifeColor Black Umber Wash and then, while it’s still wet, daub it with a bit of sea sponge to create both dimension and texture.
  3. Dry brush on LifeColor Dark Aluminum.
  4. Dry brush on LifeColor Lacquered Steel Late WWII German Shell.
  5. Seal with Mr. Super Clear Semi-Gloss Spray.

Creating the “Aluminum” Base

  1. Begin by spraying the “silver” plastic sub-assembly with Tamiya Fine Surface Primer Light Gray.
  2. Spray on Tamiya Gloss Silver.
  3. Using a mop brush, apply a wash of LifeColor Eroding Dark Rust Wash.
  4. Using a cotton ball, and cotton swabs, rub in the wash using circular motions until you achieve a warm, translucent sheen.
  5. Seal with Mr. Super Clear Semi-Gloss Spray.

Getting Better with Age

At this point, it’s time to fully assemble the body of the model. Leave the board, the rack, the hot plates, and the other accessories separate. I never attach those permanently, but even if you plan to it’s a good idea to wait until everything’s completely finished. Then it’s time to ask yourself: where does this piece live? What is its story? Your answers to those questions will determine how, and to what extent, you apply weathering.

A big part of what makes weathering–of whatever amount–look realistic is order of application. A cook stove that’s still in regular use might have rust, for example, but it won’t be on the stovetop. Likewise, it will be under, rather than over any grease spatters. I find that what works best is applying weathering in stages, sealing my work with a light coat of spray fix in between.

  1. Black
  2. Smoke
  3. Dark Grey
  4. Neutral Grey
  5. Dirty White
  1. Dark Rust
  2. Medium Rust
  1. Black
  2. Rubber
  3. Streaking Dirt
  4. White

Finish up with a final coat of spray fix and…that’s all, folks!

Now, do I use every single pencil I’ve listed, every single time I work on a project like this? Yes, usually. What varies is how much I use. If I skip something, like rust, then that’s because it makes sense in terms of what I’m modeling. Not every stove will be a grease disaster, and some will in fact be brand new.

Should you want to model a brand new stove, create the cast iron base as listed and, when you create the aluminum base, omit the LifeColor Eroding Dark Wash. Assemble your model, finish with two (light) coats of spray fix, and you’re done! I find, though, that unless you’re going for the literal “ready to move in” look, almost every single surface in every single house has some sort of imperfection–even if it’s just fingerprints and dust.

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